How to plant bare-root trees
Most deciduous fruit trees are grown by nurseries in the field, being dug or lifted during dormancy (in Winter when the tree is not growing and has dropped it’s leaves). The roots must be kept moist, so in the nursery, the trees are stored in bundles in large beds of sawdust. When transported to garden centres, the trees are packed with damp straw to ensure the roots remain moist while in transit.

After purchasing a bare-root tree, keep the roots damp by heeling into a garden bed temporarily or in a bucket of potting mix. If roots have dried slightly, soak the roots in a bucket of water for an hour or two. Dig a large hole, twice the diameter of the root mass. Loosen the sides and bottom of the hole, especially if the soil is heavy. Add gypsum and compost as soil conditioners to heavy or clay soils to improve drainage. Inspect the tree and roots before planting. Note where the soil line was on the plant so that you can plant it at the same depth that it was grown in the nursery. This is likely to be 15-20cm below the bud or graft union. Tidy up any torn, damaged or unusually long roots with sharp secateurs.

When ready for planting, put about 1/3 of the soil mix back into the hole, in a mound and place the tree in, spreading the roots. Put the rest of the soil in the hole and press down gently to eliminate air pockets and to ensure the soil is firmed enough that the tree remains upright. Insert a strong stake if necessary, using a soft fabric tie to loosely secure the tree to the stake. A tree that is too strongly staked will not develop roots well to support itself, relying on the stake for support. Water the tree in well to provide moisture for the roots but do not overwater to the point of sitting water. As the roots are not taking up moisture during Winter dormancy, sitting with ‘wet feet’ will cause root rot and possibly disease, so do not over water. It is not necessary to feed fruit trees when planting in Winter as the roots are not taking up nutrients until at least mid Spring. Often planting tablets will have leached away before then.

How to plant trees in pots or planter bags
Fruit trees that are field grown may be ‘potted up’ into planter bags or pots for ease of transport, display instore and to extend the selling season (as bare-root trees can only be sold between June and August). Other fruit trees may be grown in containers from day one – this is the case for most citrus, berries, feijoas, figs and persimmons.

Dig a large hole, twice the diameter of the root mass. Loosen the sides and bottom of the hole, especially if the soil is heavy. Add gypsum and compost as soil conditioners to heavy or clay soils to improve drainage. Inspect the tree before planting. Note where the soil line was on the plant so that you can plant it at the same depth. When ready for planting, put about 1/3 of the soil mix back into the hole, forming into a mound. Remove the tree from the pot (or use a sharp knife to cut away the planter bag). Place the tree with the roots spread over mound. Put the rest of the soil in the hole and press down gently to eliminate air pockets and to ensure the soil is firmed enough that the tree remains upright.

Insert a strong stake if necessary, using a soft fabric tie to loosely secure the tree to the stake. A tree that is too strongly staked will not develop roots well to support itself, relying on the stake for support. Water the tree in well to provide moisture for the roots but do not overwater to the point of sitting water. If planting during Winter, as the roots are not taking up moisture during dormancy, sitting with ‘wet feet’ will cause root rot and possibly disease, so do not over water. If planting in any other season, water regularly as necessary, especially during dry Summer periods. It is not necessary to feed fruit trees if planting in Winter as the roots are not taking up nutrients until at least mid Spring. Often planting tablets will have leached away before then.